This post is a run down of the campgrounds we stayed in on the South Island. The post does not share any glimmerings of insight or reflection, rather it is a way for us to record where we stayed so if we, or others, visit the south island with a tent or campervan, we can remember what stops were our favorite. It may be a less than enthralling read.
We camped our way across the South Island of New Zealand, staying at Department of Conservation (DOC) sites with a few Holiday parks thrown in here and there. All the sites were at a minimum fine and at best awesome. The reasons that some were less than stellar usually had more to do with weather (rain), our own state of mind, or sand flies. Sometimes it was just a place to pull off the road and pitch a tent for the night and thus had a fairly transient feeling. The ones that were wonderful were really great. Usually this was when the campground was a bit off the main road and in beautiful country. Not surprising, these spots were often ones we settled in for more than a night. Below, listed for posterity and as a way for us to reference back if asked for travel advice, is a short run down on our DOC campsites on the South Island of New Zealand.
Butchers Flat on our way from Nelson towards Able Tasman.
We didn't love this stop. It was our first introduction to Sandflies and they were fierce. There was a beautiful river nearby but it was difficult to enjoy it with the swarms of flies.
(see final note about sandflies in post "Pictures from the West Coast")
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| This was our first stop near wine country and we did enjoy a good bottle of wine. |
Anapai Beach in Able Tasman National Park
This was a permitted site on an isolated beach on the Able Tasman Coastal walk. It was a beautiful location. I speak about our experience in the post "On Fear".
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| The location of "our" beach as seen from the walk. |
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We had the beach, and the site, to ourselves.
Some would say this was good fortune. The kids disagree. |
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| The cheeky Weka birds stole our food and provided lots of entertainment. |
Lake Mahinapua - Just south of Hokitika. It was a big grassy field near a lovely lake. We didn't really enjoy it due to the rain and flies.
Lake Paringa - North of Haast. Was directly off the road and was busy, but the view of the lake was lovely. Again, sand flies were FIERCE.
Pleasant Flat - This too was just off the Haast Highway, on the Wanaka side of the Haas Pass. The views of Hooker mountain in the distance with the Hooker river running right next to the campground were spectacular. There was a forest walk from the campground that took you by a gentle stretch of river. This site is very popular but spread out so it didn't feel too crowded. It also has a cooking shelter as well as, notably, the only cellular coverage between Haast and Hawea. Recommended stop to allow more time on this stretch of the drive.
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| Tents were scattered around, in groves of trees and in fields, while small campervans and people sleeping in their cars were scattered along the perimeter on the pavement. |
Kidd Bush Reserve - 32 km north of Wanaka, on the shores of lake Hawea. This was a favorite stop. It felt less transient than some of the other sites on the popular West Coast-Haast highway route. Perhaps it was because it took a bit more effort to arrive here off the main road, or we were close enough to Wanaka that others may have decided to go right to where the action was. Whatever the reason, Kidd Bush felt like a place we wanted to stay for a few days, and so we did.
The campground was on the shores of lake Hawea, whose large presence defined the location. We all swam and played in the lake, enjoyed the sunsets and marveled at the night stars. There were some walks into the hills behind the campground. There was a very friendly vibe among campers, with chats striking up at the communal cooking shelter or while folks wandered to the lake to watch the sunset. We had a good laugh when a very fit French man came down to the cooking shelter in torrential morning rain. He had clearly finished a run and when someone joked "nice day for a run" he said, "it was blue skies when I left." What!? That was hours ago. Yup, he is an ironman triathelete (I scoped out his athletics bag) and turns out he had just gone for a morning MARATHON length run. We also met a lovely couple from B.C. and, as good Canadians, we figured out who we knew in common. The kids laughed at me for striking up conversations with people, but with nothing but time and perhaps a healthy dose of a need for someone beyond my four travelling companions to speak with, it seemed like the natural thing to do.
Kidd Bush was also where we started our second Nevermoor book (see post "Sharing" for the review of these wonderful books). Crowded in the tent we read and read and read. It was not until the next morning that I learned that others could hear us as they walked by or sat outside. I believe it to be genuine when two different travelers said how lovely it was to hear the reading and the giggling of the children. The time at Kidd Bush felt like a little bubble, where we were in the groove and all was right with our world.
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| The drive along the shores of Lake Hawea, off of the main highway, towards the campground. |
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| Sunset looking south towards Wanaka |
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| Waking to this incredible rainbow after a stormy night. |
Henry Creek - on the shores of Lake Te Anau, 25 kms north of the town.
This stop was a quick one for us. We pulled in fairly late and out early. The camping spots were spread out and tucked into patches of forest. We didn't even see the lake.
Cascade Creek - within the Fiordland National Reserve, immediately off the Milford Road.
This was a very large and beautiful site. We found a lovely spot under the trees by the brook that provided us with some quiet and a sense being away from the impressively large crowds that would appear by then end of the day and empty out by early morning. The views were spectacular, there was space to wander and look at bunnies and birds and surrounding mountains, and the location allowed us to spend a few days in the Milford Sound area. From here we drove the Milford Road to the sound and surrounding stops, like the Key Summit Hike. This was a favorite stop.
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| Car camping at its best. |
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Mountains that line the horizon.
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Moke Lake - Outside of Queenstown
This was another site that we pulled into late and left early. There are limited DOC choices near Queenstown, so this spot is busy. We were less than impressed with the general vibe, but perhaps it was simply because we were eager to meet up with our friends and so we did not linger. Tellingly, we don't have any pictures of this stop.
White Horse Hill - Mount Cook, at the end of the Hooker Valley Road. This site was hugely popular, but for good reason. It is nestled at the feet of the mountains, just a couple of kilometers from the Mount Cook village, and at the start of some awesome walks like the Hooker Valley Walk. It was by far one of the busiest sites we stayed at, but it was large and absorbed the people. We only stayed for one night as we had to get up early to make our way to the airport. Pretty impressive last stop in New Zealand! Completely recommend staying in Hooker Valley, either at campsite or in the village if not tenting, so that you can be smack dab in the middle of amazing mountain landscape.
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This guy was a proficient camper by the end of our New Zealand trip.
He set up the tent all on his own this final night. |
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| The Hooker Valley Walk is one of the main draws to this campsite. |
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| The moon and the mountains behind our tent. |
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| Large crowds, but look at the setting! |
White Horse Hill campground at Mount Cook was the last stop of our camping adventure in New Zealand. Camping was a wonderful way for our family to see the country, to bond, learn new skills, and experience new adventures.
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